Repainting the boat's bottom

Once stripped of old antifouling (which I think is the first time since she was built since the thickness and weight of paint was staggering), three coats of underwater primer (International Primocon) were applied to the timber, the first coat thinned by about 10%.  She was lightly sanded between coats and one or two fastening heads were filled and faired.  To my great relief, despite the boat's age, the bottom planking is in great condition, no damage, splits or shakes and all the fastenings look good and tight. Painting the bottom of a clinker hull lying on one's back is quite fiddly, making sure that the plank edges all get painted. I see the GRP yachts being roller-painted in a few minutes but I used a 2" brush and took my time to get a nice smooth finish.
Once the timber was primed I chipped and de-rusted the ballast keel (iron) and bilge keels (steel plate) to the best of my ability.  I would dearly like to have the bilge keels properly grit-blasted and then galvanised - as they possibly were when new - or have new ones fabricated since these are now getting quite deeply pitted in places. However, for now the iron and steel was given two coats of zinc-rich primer and then a coat of Primocon. There is a zinc button anode on each side of each keel, through-bolted. I fitted new ones this season since the previous ones were pretty much exhausted after five years part-time immersion.
I applied two coats of 'Cruiser' antifouling.  It states on the tin that one coat should last all season but examining the small print reveals that when antifouling from scratch i.e. not recoating, then two coats must be applied.  One 2.5l can was enough to give the hull two-coats and the rudder also.
The boot-top was then masked off and two coats of hard antifoul applied (International Trilux)


Primer - three coats applied over a few weeks as other works were being carried out

First coat of antifouling paint

Antifouling completed, boot-top applied and anodes fitted to bilge keels.
The bottom of the boat will never look better.



Bottom paint preparation

After numerous sessions of stripping off the old antifoul back to bare wood, including taking the boot-top off. I found that the topsides paint overlapped under the boot-top and that the builder had actually scribed a waterline in - although completely buried in the paint.
I left the areas nearest the waterline till last especially near the bows that got the afternoon sun since I was concerned that she would dry too much and open up.

Stripping the old bottom paint - she was carrying a huge weight of paint

On some of my stripping sessions the weather was so damp that there were was salty water dripping from the planking. The bottom was sanded and looked so good that I considered giving her bottom a varnish finish! - Only joking!



Bottom sanded ready for primer.

The weather was dry in late February, early March so I started to get some primer on, thinning the first coat with about 10%. International Primocon was used.




Primer going on the areas that were already bare.

The least cherished job?

Enfys is now laid up ashore on the hard in Saundersfoot Harbour and we have put the cover on with the hope that the weather would allow some maintenance - no chance! It seems to have rained almost continuously since November and we have done little more than winterise the engine and stow gear.
However I have started a long-overdue task that cannot be put off any longer : A complete strip back to bare wood of the anti foul and bottom re-paint. Lying under the boat (with the rain pouring down) I have made a start. A tungsten-carbide bladed scraper seems to be the best weapon . The old paint comes off in dust and small flakes and gets everywhere so I need to be fully goggled and masked-up for this horrible job.

Stripping off the old bottom paint.

Re-fitting the Finesse 24 centreplate

Just after re-commissioning 'Enfys' I booked a lift-out at East Llanion Marine on The Haven and the day before we were due to take the boat up I delivered the de-rusted and painted centreplate by road to the yard.
On the beach at Angle I had laboured long and hard to extract the ends of the severed bolt - it was a heck of a job! I actually had to drill and chisel the nut off before driving the bolt out with a drift. A new bolt, nut and washers had been obtained and such is the nature of these things, on a certain online auction site, I ended up buying them from three different sellers! The bolt on our F24 is an M24 and is 180mm long.

Job done - waiting to re-launch

We delivered 'Enfys' to the yard on a morning tide she was lifted and positioning the plate she was lowered onto it and onto temporary blocks. The 'plate was jacked up into place and the new bolt inserted. I used a trick that I do on mooring shackles and that is to wrap several turns of PTFE tape round the threads in the hope that the nut will delay rusting on! The recess was filled with some Sikaflex and the 'plate was jacked up again and the winch wire reconnected. Job done I had to wait for the evening tide for the yard to pop her back in the water.

Positioning the centreplate under the keel.

Mooring at Saundersfoot

After a few years on the waiting list Enfys' name finally came up for a permanent 24' mooring in Saundersfoot harbour. After a short season on the Milford Haven Waterway we eventually got a chance when the weather was OK and we were not working and had some holiday time to make the passage round. Saundersfoot always dries and on the row where our allocated mooring is we have water for about two hours either side of HW so our trips are going to be even more dependent on the tides than at Angle. A different local cruising ground for us to explore now...

Spot the only wooden yacht amongst all the plastic!

Battery Stowage Improvement 2

To make enough room to fit the new boxes I removed the original battery trays and mounted them direct to the supports attached to the boat's framing. The boxes are firmly clamped by broad stainless steel straps bolted through the bulkhead. The lids are a snug fit and have pegs arranged to keep them wedged in place.
These have done a season now and gone is the 'thud' of the batteries sliding around when the boat tacks!

Original battery tray removed

Port battery - engine starting

Starboard battery - boat's 'house' services

Battery stowage improvement 1

Enfys has two batteries both of about 100Ah stowed low-down just abaft the cabin bulkhead in the engine space, one port and one starboard.  They are connected via a BEP cluster switch and arranged so the port one is for engine starting and the starboard for 'house' service. As built she has a tray in which each battery sits held in place by a loose stainless steel strap and a basic plywood drip shield to protect them. Like this did not feel that they were well enough secured or protected - the Finesse does not have a self-draining cockpit.

Starboard battery in original stowage arrangement

I made two boxes out of 9mm marine plywood sheathed in glass mat and resin to make them stiff and watertight. With lids and cut-aways for the leads, the batteries are held down by webbing straps and the whole box can be lifted in and out with battery in situ.

Battery box under construction